Follow our journey on this map.
note: This posting was delayed due to weather disruptions. See below.
Day 40, bright and early we got up and left for Normandy. We opted to take the SNCF Nomad train to the coast because we thought that it itself would be an adventure. We had no idea!
The Metro stop right across the street from our condo is just the best thing ever. We hopped on the Metro line 8, changed to the 3, and then hopped on the SNCF to Bayeux. We had a few hours to kill before meeting the guide for Normandy. When we stepped out of the train station a majestic cathedral was right in front of us. The cathedral is in the Norman-Romanesque architectural tradition and is a national monument. The site is an ancient one and was once occupied by Roman sanctuaries. The present cathedral was consecrated on 14 July 1077 in the presence of William, Duke of Normandy. It was on this site that William may have forced Harold Godwinson to take an oath of support to him, the breaking of which led to the Norman Conquest of England – meaning that the oath must have been made before 1066.
Following serious damage to the cathedral in the 12th century, the cathedral was rebuilt in Gothic style which is most notable in the crossing tower, transepts and east end. However, despite the crossing tower having been started in the 15th century, it was not completed until the 19th century.
The interior was spectacular, as many other structures we’ve been in this week, the scale is hard to capture. The crypt architecture was really interesting and lit dramatically. I waited and waited to get the perfect shot with nobody in it. But of course, just as I had the shot, someone (Brad!) jumped into the frame.
Rain was moving in and because we had some time before meeting the tour guide we headed for lunch. It was a French country restaurant and spectacular (food shots below).
We walked in light rain to meet the guide; because it was just the 6 of us so it became a private tour. The rain became heavier as we drove. Not a good sign. By the time we reached Omaha Beach the wind and rain had both picked up. We did not know that Storm Patricia had hit. We didn’t even know about Storm Patricia!
Well…. Storm Patricia was a cyclone that totally disrupted the northwest coast of France with sustained winds of about 35 mph and gusts up to 50. Let me tell you, it felt every bit that strong.
We were not about to leave the tour so we stood on the sand at Omaha Beach with the wind howling and hurling wet sand laterally along the stretch. We got a sense of what the brave soldiers might have endured (in terms of weather) as they made their landing. The tide was out and gave us a real insight into the barren stretch of beach that they had to cross just to get to the base of the dunes. (We found out that they had to land at low tide because of all the obstacles that had been placed closer to shore.)
Our next stop was at the site of 3 bunkers overlooking the stretch of beach. The structures themselves were quite impressive in terms of design and construction. But it was the size of the gun barrels that blew me away. I have a shot of Mae standing next to one to provide contextual scale.
The weather continually got worse. At one point, the 3 ladies took shelter in one of the bunkers as the 3 guys (with less sense) continued on with the guide. As we reached the top of another lookout, we truly had difficulty standing because of the wind. We had to call a halt to the tour of the beaches.
To say that we were soaked to the bone is an understatement.
The next stop, and the one that I was most interested in, was the American cemetery. I have visited the cemetery in Manila, Philippines so I was prepared for the expanse of grave markers but not the somber and celebratory view that we received. Most of the houses in that part of the country proudly fly American flags to honor the sacrifice that was made. The rain made it even more somber.
We had a train to catch so we headed back to Bayeux stopping at a convenience store to pick up some sandwiches for dinner. Arriving at the station with some time to spare we found out that the train was delayed for 15 minutes. No big deal. We found a corner out of the rain and started munching on our “dinner.” Then it was a 30 minute delay. Then 45. Then cancelled. Then all hell broke loose.
No announcements were made in English. People were everywhere. Trains were being cancelled left and right. We had eyes on a train that was leaving in about 20 minutes so I stepped into the restroom (which was across the street). My phone started blowing up with text messages saying “get over here.” So I step out and see Brad shouting at me with high anxiety to get over there “NOW!” So I ran across the street and Brad started running too. Not sure where but I was following. I came around the corner and see the other 4 holding a train door open. They looked like refugees in that they were clutching food, jackets, and water with a panicked look on their faces. Brad and I literally jumped into the train and the door closed right behind us. Off we went to somewhere. But somewhere was better than Bayeux.
I found that we were on a regional train going to Caen. From there we were going to find some way south to Paris. We arrived about 30 minutes later, stepped off the train and someone shouted, “that one’s going to Paris!” So what do we do? Hop onto some train hoping for the best. To our relief it was headed to Paris, stopping at every single small village on the way😊
From the time we got to the train station in Bayeux to the time we got to the condo right at midnight, we had taken 5 trains over the 5-hour span. But we found our way home. It was a riot in retrospect.






























